| When it comes to choosing a place to eat in Aspen, good
luck. Hopefully, you'll be staying in town for a few days so your
selection doesn't come down to just choosing one place to eat. Because
the cosmopolitan selection of eateries in the downtown area is so
overwhelming, you could go hungry just thinking about where to go. And
you still might find yourself ambling from street to street, weighing
the menus of the wealth of five-star designer restaurants and endless
local joints, without ever going inside.
Of course, if you visit Aspen during the off season (early spring and late fall) many of the restaurants close, which limits the number of choices, but not by much. Plus, due to the competitive atmosphere and the fact that rents can top something like $25,000 per month, many restaurants don't make it. But don't worry: a new adventure in eating will quickly take over the empty space. During peak times, many of the trendy spots fill up well in advance, so it is probably a good idea to book a table well before your visit. It is a small price to pay to dine with Aspens see-and-be-seen crowd. You also need to consider price. Contrary to popular belief, you can find an affordable meal in Aspen, and considering you will be hard pressed to find a fast food (besides a McDonalds) joint anywhere in town, the cheap eats are more than just a processed burger and some fries. But if you have a pocketbook without limitations, you can buy a $15 hamburger or you can easily spend $500 to $1000 on a meal, especially if you add wine or appetizers. In most cases, you are paying for a meal created by a renowned rock-n-roll chef who perceives the plate as a canvass for art. Then there is the posh ambiance, and the chance you might sample of some caribou, while you watch Kevin Costner shuck a few oysters at the next table. Cheap Eats The best way to find out where to eat without breaking the bank is to ask a local. Whether the person at hotel front desk, a shopkeeper or someone on the street bedecked in snowboard street wear, the locals are usually willing to part with a few frugal dining secrets. Of course, they can also direct you to the Aspen hot spots with waiting lists longer than lift lines after a ten-inch snowstorm. The following is just a small sampling of the restaurants in and around Aspen (there are well over 100 to choose from). If you just need a quick bite before you hit the slopes, stop by the Paradise Bakery for a muffin and espresso. Located just across the Cooper Avenue Mall, it is also the place to find Gelati in the summer. Aspen Bagel Bites is a popular stop on the lower end of downtown. At Zele you can perk up with an assortment of caffeine-enhanced beverages and fuel up with bagel sandwiches, croissants and scones. The Main Street Bakery offers the standard bacon and eggs breakfast, but is also the place health nuts can get a bowl of hot organic cereal. The cafe also serves lunch and dinner. For a sit down breakfast, there are few places in town that can top the blueberry pancakes at Jacks. Good luck getting a table in the morning at Wienerstube, a local Austrian favorite the keeps the hills alive with eggs benedict, sausages and Viennese pastries. During the peak season, this is the place to be before hitting the slopes. Inexpensive lunch and dinner options include an array typical pub fodder, but if you look around a bit you will find a number of creative alternatives. At the Big Wrap, located in the Ajax Mountain Building, you can order innovative big burrito-style originals like the Whats Up Doc, a Greek salad with hummus stuffed into a spinach wrap. When it comes to bargain Mexican fare, locals flock to Aspen Underground for the burritos, and to The Cantina for the hearty helpings of the standards and potent margaritas. La Cocina has a charming patio (heated in winter; tree lined in summer), and offers affordable New Mexican cuisine. You'll discover big slice pizza you have to fold to eat at New York Pizza. Or you can order everything on a large The Works for $19. Sandwiches and salads are also available. Keeping with the Italian theme, Luccis dishes up Italian grub in huge portions. From Chicken Parmesan to Lasagna to Baked Ziti, the classics are all here. Plus, you can order an inexpensive trout and even a New York Strip (complete with potatoes) for a mere $14.95. No wonder it is impossible to get a table after the slopes close for the day. Trattioria Toscana is an excellent find for those in the mood for romance. The quaint space takes you from the mountains of Colorado to the hills of Northern Italy for a taste of Tuscan-inspired entrees. Although, Aspen has a number of restaurants specializing in sushi and Asian cuisine, Little Ollies is one of the few that are easy on the wallet. Old-fashioned pub grub keeps Aspen honest, and there are plenty of places you can kick back with a burger and a beer. Bentleys, located in the historic Wheeler Opera House, is a restored Victorian English pub, where the locals quench their thirst. You'll see all kinds gathered around the bar, from yuppies bedecked in fancy leather coats to young hippies draped in trendy stuff you thought died in the1970s' street wear. J-Bar, the Hotel Jeromes landmark bar, has drawn a crowd since the late 1800s. It is a casual stop that features the normal burger and sandwich bar fare and a nacho plate that rivals Aspen Mountain in size. Little Annies Eating House is a neighborhood joint with an eclectic menu and multiple personalities. Part western saloon, part country club, the popular spot is a haven for locals and tourist alike. The 100-year-old Red Onion is another traditional drinking joint. Besides the abundance of microbrews available, you can also order Mexican food, burgers, soups and salads. Perhaps the most famous cheap eat destination in the downtown area is the Popcorn Wagon (The). From hot dogs and sandwiches to gyros and heart stopping crepes, this 1913 Cretors Special Model D wagon stocks a wide range of quick grab treats. But no matter the season, the seating is outdoors, although a heat lamp does make the chill less biting in the heart of winter. If you are staying in a condo with a kitchenette, you can head over to City Market or the Butchers Block (The) and pick up meats, seafood and other grocery items to prepare yourself. Cheap Eats in Snowmass Village Mangia Mangia keeps the ski and snowboard crowd happy with impressive specialty pizzas like The Powder Pie and The Big Daddy. You can also build your own pizza, or opt for a sandwich, salad or bowl of pasta. Mayfair Deli and Pizzeria also does the pizza and sandwich thing, but you can also choose from a variety of tasty Paninis. Cirque Bar and Grill is a local favorite on the Snowmass Mall, serving bar staples like bratwurst, nachos, chicken fingers and, of course, burgers. Seven TVs play sports non-stop and a huge patio stares up the slopes. At The Stew Pot you can warm up with a big bowl of steaming chili or old-fashioned beef stew. Sandwiches and soups round out the menu. The Moondogs Cable Car Cafeis a great place to start the day. You can relax in an antique cable car from San Francisco and enjoy bagel sandwiches in the morning and wraps, burritos and sandwiches for lunch. Notable Downvalley Cheap Eats To get a taste of real mountain ambiance, venture outside of Aspen to the Woody Creek Tavern. The menu is a hodgepodge burgers, Mexican fare, steak and seafood. But, although the grub is good, the locals are the reason to stop by. The tavern resides in a trailer park (don't worry, tourists love the place), and is the watering hole for some true characters, including gonzo journalist, Hunter Thompson. If you are staying in Basalt, check out the Two Rivers Cafe. Located in the heart of downtown, the neighborly spot serves a mean pile of pancakes and a lunch menu packed with down home hamburgers. Perhaps the gem of the Downvalley cuisine offerings is Carbondales Six 89. The seasonal new American menu features Colorado classics like lamb, free-range chicken and smoked duck created by famed chef Mark Fischer. Putting on the Ritz Although there are plenty of local joints where you can save a few bucks, Aspen just wouldn't be Aspen without haute cuisine, celebrity chefs, vogue dining rooms and exotic menus dressed in foreign languages. The number of restaurants boasting five- and four-stars is astounding, and, at times, the outrageously trendy settings border on the absurd. It is one of the few ski towns that have exclusive private clubs reminiscent of Los Angeles and New York City. The beautiful people need a hip place to be seen. No wonder the town always receives high marks for snobbery in readers surveys. But one thing few people can debate is the quality of the food. From French, Swiss and Mediterranean cuisine to Continental classics and Colorado wild game specialties, the fine dining choices cover the food spectrum. And although presentation is everything (just wait until you get an eyeful of some of the entrees), the artistic meanderings from some of the worlds leading chefs create tastes that border on a sensual experience. When you are finally ready to head out to one of the upscale joints after a day or skiing or other mountain activities, leave the formal dress at the hotel. You may feel the urge to pull out the Armani, and the restaurants may at first appear stuffy, but Aspen, in general, is laid back and informal, and this carries over at the dinner table. Also, make sure you have a reservation. During the ski season it is sometimes necessary to have a reservation two to three months in advance. And no matter how snooty and pretentious the atmosphere may seem, just remember, it is only food. Bon Appetite. Olives Aspen, located in the St Regis Hotel, is where chef Todd English wows visitors with his mix of the Mediterranean and the mountains. Just reading the menu, with long winded entrees like Brick Oven Roasted Chilean Bass with tempura shrimp and herbs, red wine glaze and green olive emulsion, is an activity in itself. The signature community table might intimidate some, and even put a damper on a romantic evening, but it is a great place to meet travelers from around the world. When heavenly bodies align you get Syzygy. But in Aspen, Syzygy means a hip restaurant with a chef skilled in preparing wild game, a master sommelier on staff and an atmosphere that mixes fine dining and jazz. Sophisticated palates love the award-winning Restaurant at Little Nell. The menu also fancies wild game, and the dining room, which redefines elegance, looks like it came directly from Buckingham Palace. Plus, the mountainside views are nothing short of incredible. If you can track down a member to sponsor you for a weeks membership to the Caribou Club, the doors of high society will open (but only after the $375 to $1000 fee). Being in this place is like hanging out in a dignitarys den, and it features five-star fare, pricey cigars and a wine list that tops 5,000 bottles. After dinner, the disco heats up for a bit of dancing. Cache Cache, a Gourmet Magazine favorite, takes you on a gastronomical journey into the heart of Provence, while Campo de Fiori explores the cuisine of Tuscany. The The Mother Lode has been the place for Italian standards and romance for over 41 years. Matsuhisa Aspenbrings the artful ideas of one of the worlds most respected sushi chefs to Aspen. Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa raises the art of sushi to a new level, fusing traditional Japanese ideas with a variety of worldly influences. If you are going to share sashimi with the stars, it just might happen here. But be prepared to pay a hefty price for the experience. A single dinner can easily top $100. Kenichi is another world-class sushi stop, with one of the best sake stocks in town, but the bill won't max out the credit card. Vinh Vinh is Aspens only Vietnamese restaurant, but it is not you run of the mill strip mall fast food joint. The dining room is classy, the portions are hefty and MSG is a dirty word. Too bad the prices are not in Dong. For a curry fix and an interesting mix of ethic food with the favorite American lounge drink, try Thai Tini. If you are craving a taste of Colorado, head over to Pinons for Roasted Lamb Chops, a tasty cut of elk or sautéed Colorado Pheasant. The surf and turf crowd has been filling the Steak Pit since 1960 for juicy cuts of meat and fresh crab and lobster. Meat lovers can even find BBQ in Aspen at Rustys Hickory House, while seafood aficionados can get their fill of the east coast catch at Butchs Lobster Bar. For an otherworldly experience, consider a trip to the Pine Creek Cookhouse in Ashcroft. Hop on the sleigh (its the only way to get there in the winter) and enjoy the ride up the mountain, before enjoying a tasty array of seafood and wild game. Over in Snowmass Village you will find a number of diverse fine dining options. The Brothers Grille features a predominantly American menu, with healthy doses of steak, chicken and pasta. You can also order beef at Cowboys, but they also offer trout, salmon, elk and lamb. For French fare, with a few Italian dishes, head over to La Boheme for some venison, caribou and a striped bass that melts in your mouth. But when the plate is clear and the bottle of wine is empty, and you are still alive after the bill and regretting the 3,000-calorie dessert, wander back over to a local joint for a nightcap and a bit of unpretentious conversation. T. Turner |
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