|
Dining in Europe > Stockholm "An appetizer (or a main course) which consists of among others bread and butter, cold cuts and small hot dishes" is how a smorgåsbord is defined according to the National Encyclopedia. Stockholms restaurant world could be described as giant smorgasbord, offering something for every kind of tastebud. During the last twenty years the Stockholm smorgasbord has developed enormously, inspired by culinary art from the four corners of the earth as well as the Swedish cuisine. One explanation for todays multi-cultural restaurant life lies in the fact that Swedes, including Swedish chefs, travel in greater extent all over the world, bringing new ingredients and flavours as they come back to their own kitchen. In the old days it would have been sacrilege if one served herring in any other way than the traditional. Today it is not uncommon that herring has a flavour of ginger or oregano, and it is no longer a question of breaking the rules of the local cuisine but about reinventing and blending. A couple of years ago every neighbourhood with self-respect had a pizzeria; now the pizzerias have been forced to move closer together to make space for more exotic spices such as Indian and Thai. Restaurants have been and still are springing up like colorful mushrooms all over the city, which has resulted in that the ordinary man and woman in Stockholm have become much more knowledgeable in the culinary art. So, if these following pieces of advice are not satisfying enough, do not hesitate to ask the amateur chef on the street for tonights dinner plans! Norrmalm / City A must for champagne drinkers and lobster guzzlers is Berns at Berzelli Park. Operakällaren is a classic in the Stockholm restaurant world, but if the prices are too high one can find equally fine food on the other side of the Opera at Bakfickan. Another classic and immortal restaurant is Café Opera where simple home cooking is the main attraction. The paradox of combining luxury with simple home cooking can be enjoyed at Sturehof, the present hub of Stockholms restaurant life, open almost round the clock. Prinsen is still the rendezvous place for many actors, poets and artists, and at KB (Konstnärsbaren) the cultural elite mixed with Internet elite samples crossover and traditional Swedish dishes. Crossover and other food trends that characterised the Swedish cuisine during the Nineties began at Rolfs Kök. East, claimed to be the best soul bar in town, offers modern Asian food from Thailand, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. Vasastaden Peppar is a classic in its neighbourhood; here stout and masculine dishes such as chili, jambalaya and so forth dominate the menu. Sala Thai has for a long time been the Thai king of Vasastan. Small, fastidious, nice and comfortable is September, worth a visit; a piece of advice, though, is to book one of the few tables beforehand. Storstad on the other hand won the Stockholm Award 1999 for best restaurant, and is extremely popular. Tranan is well-visited, whether it is in the actual restaurant where the favourites are meatballs and Rydbergare, or downstairs in the bar with the pinball machines. Especially during the weekends it is frequented by young people out clubbing. Wasahof is the pride of Vasastan located at Vasaparken, where French cuisine gets on well with Swedish. Very appreciated by journalists, authors and actors from the older generation. Last but not least, spend your Sunday morning relaxing at Sirap over a fragrant American brunch. Östermalm Lydmar has a stylish dining room where one can choose between a range of appetizing dishes, no matter what the budget, since the food comes in three different sizes. Tures is the natural hang-out after the end of a working day, while No 18 gets better the closer it gets to midnight. Wedholms Fisk is the fish restaurant with a capital F, and has kept its winning concept through the years: fresh fish, heavenly sauces and enormous portions. At Foam the bold and the beautiful go for their coffee-break. Djurgården The Old Town Södermalm Kungsholmen Although the Stockholmer has become more educated in the culinary art, a hot dog with bostongurka and rostad lök still has a sacred place in our hearts. You might actually get one of your best culinary experiences at one of the hot-dog stands around town... Malin Dunfors Entertainment in StockholmWith the long, dark winters of northern Europe, it is hardly surprising that Stockholmers need plenty of diversions, and you do not have to walk far from anywhere to find some form of entertainment. When the rain and the snows begin to assail the city, all of Stockholms theatres enjoy their peak season, the many cinemas draw crowds with both Hollywood fare and film festivals, the exhibits proliferate at the museums, and the bars and nightclubs stay open until early morning. If you are in the downtown area or on Söder, you will find all the recreation you need within easy walking distance; if your stamina fails you there are plenty of buses both during the day and at night, and the metro runs until midnight on weekdays, with extended night traffic on weekends. In the summertime, the city itself is a fantastic experience, with all its water and bridges, swimming and fishing areas, all the architectural diversity imaginable, swarming street life, and much-frequented parks. Stockholm veritably explodes with life at the first sign of spring sunshine, and both residents and visitors delight in the long days and nearly non-existent nights that characterise the fantastic Swedish summers. This is the perfect time to stroll around Old Town or Djurgården, admire the boats and ships in Nybroviken, try to haggle with the vendors at Hötorget, spend a whole day at Skansen or Gröna Lund, take a trip out to the fabulous archipelago, see one of the Park Theatres outdoor performances, or to go swimming and soaking up the sunshine on Långholmen. Theatres The state-subsidised theatres typically have a large and varied selection of classics, dramas, comedies and childrens theatre on offer. The Stockholm City Theatre, which is housed in the enormous Cultural Centre, at Sergels Torg, is a prime example of this with its seven stages. There are performances here from early morning until late at night, catering for all tastes and ages. Among the most popular stages are the well-known Klara "Soup theatre", Unga Klara, Backstage and the Park Theatre. And yes, a number of famous faces, familiar from TV and movie screens, can definitely be glimpsed at the stage entrance. The best place to catch celebrities is probably the Royal Dramatic Theatre at Nybroplan, however. Ingmar Bergman has left an indelible mark in this theatrical institution, and where The Stockholm City Theatre is modern and populist, The Royal Dramatic Theatre offers an exclusive atmosphere and royal boxes. The exception to this is their satellite stage Elverket on Östermalm, which has a much more modern and youthful appeal. The privately operated theatres have higher ticket prices, lots of chartered buses coming in from all over Sweden, and a repertoire of musicals and farces. The beautiful Oscarsteatern, with its long theatrical history, has been at the centre of much controversy lately because of acrimonious disputes over changes of ownership, but the theatre and the productions are generally magnificent and lavish, with strong casts and award-winning productions. The latter is equally true of Chinateatern at Berzelii Park and Cirkus on Djurgården. Intiman, Folkan and Maxim are sure bets if you are in the mood for a farce, and Göta Lejon has also had a number of productions that have been well worth seeing over the past couple of years. The independent theatre companies typically offer rather reasonable ticket prices, and are often home to a more experimental staging by young, hot directors and actors. Among the better known companies are Teater Galeasen and Teater Plaza, where names like Thorsten Flinck, Mikael Persbrandt, Simon Norrthon and Stefan Larsson often appear on the programmes. The Stockholm opera scene is dominated by two stages: the Royal Opera and the Folkopera. The same comparison applies here as between The Royal Dramatic Theatre and The Stockholm City Theatre. The Royal Opera is fancy and often fairly traditional, whereas The Folkopera is often younger, fresher and more modern. The great divas appear at The Royal Opera, and the upcoming opera stars of tomorrow at The Folkopera. Both are well worth a visit if you enjoy opera. Cinemas The suburbs also have their fair share of Hollywood glamour, of course. If you find yourself a bit off the beaten visitor track, you can make your way to Filmstaden Camera in Täby or Grand Lidingö. For those who prefer a more exclusive cinematic repertoire, the places to go are primarily Zita on Birger Jarlsgatan or Fågel Blå on Skeppargatan. Sture and Skandia also have a great deal to offer to those who have had enough of American box office hits. The non Swedish-speaking visitor will be pleased to hear that foreign films in Sweden are shown in the original language with Swedish subtitles. The one exception to this is in childrens movies, which are usually dubbed into Swedish. Even with childrens movies, however, you may find that there are two versions available, subtitled or dubbed. This is especially likely with the major Disney movies, and it could be well worth your while to check with the box office. Museums If you are the least bit interested in history, a visit to the Museum of Medieval History is an experience you will not soon forget. Here, you can learn all about the history of Stockholm through the centuries of the Middle Ages, and the displays are usually of very high quality. The National Museum of Natural History is a bit off the beaten track out by The University of Stockholm, but it is well worth the effort of taking a bus or the metro to see all the fantastic exhibits and installations. While you are here, don't miss out on the omniplex films at Cosmonova, where you can learn more about the cosmos or the Egypt of Pharaohs. Fans of sculpture should definitely make a point of visiting the amazing Millesgården, or the House of Sculpture in Vinterviken. Färgfabriken by Liljeholmen also has a lot to offer, in both sculpture and modern art. In the latter category, a visit to the Museum of Modern Art is also a must, naturally. Music For jazz- and blueslovers, Fasching and Stampen are the top choices, but many of Stockholms bars and pubs offer musical entertainment of this genre, especially on weekends, so take a look at programmes. The major pop and rock concerts are usually held at the Globe Arena, Cirkus, the Stadium or the Concert Hall. Tickets can usually be purchased at tobacconists displaying an ATG symbol, or at Sweden House on Hamngatan. Nightclubs and bars In Kungsträdgården, Café Opera is the ultimate nightlife attraction, but Victoria and Daily News Café are also very popular. If you make your way towards Stureplan, you may want to check out Biblos, Sophies Bar, Karlsson & Co or Halv trappa och en gård on the way. Once there, you cannot miss the queues outside Spy Bar, East, Laroy and Sturecompagniet. If you prefer local pub life, Söder is the place to go. Söders Hjärta, Snaps, Guldapan, Folkhemmet, K or Fenix are all safe bets. Vasastan also has a number of good pubs and bars, such as Cliff Barnes, Storstad and Brittania. Or why not explore the huge selection of whiskeys and the genuine British pub atmosphere of the little known but very congenial Bishops Arms on S:t Eriksgatan. For that genuine pub feeling, The Loft on Regeringsgatan also comes highly recommended to those who prefer to stick to the central parts of downtown Stockholm. Dining in Europe > Stockholm
|