Dining in Heidelberg

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The dining and drinking opportunities in Heidelberg reflect the unique situation of this beautifully historical city, tucked into the Neckar River valley. As one of Germanys historically important cultural centres, with the oldest and most Nobel-prize studded German university, and with well-preserved traditional German architecture, the city exerts a powerful force on those who want to explore the Germany of old.

The millions of visitors who come from around the world to discover this interesting past are greeted with a great variety of traditional German pubs and restaurants, which offer local and regional specialities in authentic settings. The massive influx of international visitors, however, leaves its mark, and so perhaps more than any other city its size in Germany, Heidelberg offers visitors (and locals) lots of international dining opportunities.

The blocks around the Hauptstrasse and in the old city have the greatest concentration of cafes, restaurants and pubs, but try to spend a little time beyond the fringes of this area too, if you can. One other tip: in Heidelberg, particularly on the Hauptstrasse and in the old city, restaurant hours can vary depending on how busy they are, what the weather is like, the time of year, and so on. This is particularly true of some of the newer locations, which may have to experiment a bit to find their niche clientele. If in doubt, phone ahead before setting out.

If you're on the hunt for traditional German food, have no fear: some of the old city restaurants seem to be in informal competition to provide the heartiest and meatiest fare. First, there are the three golds: Zum Goldenen Schaf, some 250 years old; Gasthaus Goldener Hecht, where Goethe ate; and Goldener Anker, occupying a house built in the early 1700s. You also won't be able to avoid noticing Zum Ritter St. Georg, whose well-known facade looks out on the Holy Ghost Church. Another popular spot that specialises in serving up traditional food is the Brauhaus Vetter, which brews its own beer on location. This is an especially good spot for carnivorous groups, for parties of 20 or more can order ahead for an entire roasted pig.

In addition to these and other larger and older locations, there are numerous smaller establishments characterised by wood and plaster interiors and menus heavy with traditional meat and potato or noodle dishes. Visitors should be aware, however, that German cuisine can also reach the delicately sublime, as those who treat themselves to a meal at Kurfürstenstube and Die Hirschgasse certainly know. These two elegant establishments offer contemporary German cuisine that is neither average nor easily forgotten.

International options include Greek, Italian, US American, Irish, Lebanese, Thai, Chinese, Korean, French, Spanish, Mexican, Indian, Pakastani, Persian, Turkish, Japanese and more. These are available both in take-out, fast food versions and full service restaurants in which one can enjoy a fine, multiple course meal with drinks (and even, at Cedars Restaurant, with a water pipe and belly-dancing!). Vegetarians and budget travellers in particular should note that international restaurants, particularly Asian and Middle Eastern, are often the best bets.

For most visitors, a trip to Heidelberg wouldn't be complete without a few indulgences in the renowned German beers. Most restaurants offer a selection of German beers, a few brew their own right on the premises (the Kulturbrauerei Brauhaus is an especially good choice for that), and Zum Weien Schwan, which offers 101 beers, even advertises itself as a beer museum. To steep yourself in German beer and tradition, spend an evening in one of Heidelbergs historic student pubs, most of which are adorned with old photographs and memorabilia. Jack the Ripper, with English ales, or one of Heidelbergs several Irish pubs, are other places to stop if you'd like to try something a little different.

As refreshing as the beer is, locals know that as great as beer may be, it can't beat the wines that the Heidelberg region is known for. The city is located in the Baden wine-growing region, which produces many dry wines of high quality and is the origin of many of Germanys best Spätburgunders. Just to the north is the tiny Hessiche Bergstrasse, which produces mostly Rieslings, and whose vintages are a real treat to find given their rarity. West lies the Pfalz, where world-class dry white wines can be found, especially Rieslings, Scheurebe, Weiss- and Grauburgunders. Look for such estates as Bürklin-Wolf, Bassermann-Jordan, and von Buhl. Lastly, Württemberg lies to the east, where, in recent years, several red wines have earned it distinction. Whatever is in the glass, if it originated in the region surrounding Heidelberg, you can be sure it is a quality wine.

Naturally, it is perfectly possible to have a great time just having a coffee, snack, or ice cream at one of the numerous cafes. Most places have at least a couple of tables streetside, and expect most public squares (and both the Uniplatz and the Marktplatz in the old city) to have lots of pleasant outdoor seating when the weather is nice. International guests will be pleased with the selection of newspapers at the Cafe Journal, and day and night the streets between the Holy Ghost Church and the Alte Brücke are popular places for coffee and conversation. In several international languages, of course.

Entertainment in Heidelberg

Museums and art

The museums of Heidelberg are mostly located along or close to the Hauptstrae so that they are within walking distance. Germanys oldest university has some small museums like the collection of antique exhibits the Antikenmuseum, the University-Museum, the Studentenkarzer (a historic prison especially for students), and the Universitätsbibliothek (university library).

The famous castle also offers two museums; one is the Deutsches Apotheker Museum (German Apothecaries' Museum) that shows the history of pharmacy. The Schlossmuseum, however, consists of different rooms that are all shown as part of the Guided Castle Tour. Further on the Schlossberg you will find the Carl-Bosch-Museum, located in the former house of the nobel-prize winner. For those who are interested in art the Heidelberger Kunstverein and the Museum Haus Cajeth offer contemporary art, whereas the Museum der sakralen Kunst has specialises in religious art. A wide thematic range from archaeology to the history of the town, paintings and sculptures arts and crafts is presented in the Kurpfälzische Museum. Heidelberg also boasts an ethnological museum the Völkerkundemuseum.

If you are interested in German political history, you can visit the birth-place and a small museum of the former President of the Weimar Republic Friedrich Ebert in the Friedrich-Ebert-Gedenkstätte or the Dokumentations- und Kulturzentrum der deutschen Sinti und Roma, that documents the persecution of Sinti and Roma in the Third Reich.

Quite a unusual museum in Heidelberg is the Deutsches Verpackungsmuseum, where you can see classical German packing. For those who are interested in science the University offers a Botanischen Garten (botanical garden) in the Neuenheimer Feld. Also a little outside the town you will find the Bonsai-Museum and Textilmuseum Max Berk. The HeidelbergCard offers you free entry in a bulk of the museums and free use of Public transport within Heidelberg.

Cinemas

Most of the cinemas are located in the city centre or nearby. Those who are interested in the latest movies and the standard programme should visit one of the big movie-centres. Either the largest cinema the Harmonie/ Lux/ Cinemathek next to the municipal theatre or the Schloss-Center, the only cinema of the Ufa-company that presents movies especially for kids. But perhaps you are more partial to a more cosy atmosphere and are not interested in the latest action-movie or the latest Hollywood-comedy? In that case a good choice would be a visit to the Kammer. The fourth Ufa cinema, the Studio Europa, specialises in "Hollywood-classics", was created over the past five years and is located in the Rohrbacher Strae.

In the two "Gilde-Cinemas", they show alternative movies. The Kamera in Neuenheim is famous for its newer national and international alternative movies and for its "classical alternative movies". The Gloria/ Gloriette on Hauptstrae show a similar programme. The cinema, that is awarded with several prizes every year - especially for its programme for kids - lays its emphasis on the "European cinema". In October/November they also organise the "International Movie Festival Mannheim-Heidelberg". In summer (June-August) the Gloria cinema disposes the Open-Air-Cinema in the Neuenheimer Feld. Two additional cinemas are located in the two big alternative entertainment locations, the Schwimmbad Musik Club and the Municipal Cinema in the Karlstorbahnhof. The cinema in the Schwimmbad Music Club is only for visitors of the club. The Karlstorbahnhof offers cultural movies from all over the world - mostly in the original version with subtitles.

Theater

In Heidelberg they have a surprising amount of theatres, given the size of the city. This is certainly due to the university and the students. The Theater der Stadt Heidelberg, the municipal theater, offers the standard programme like dramas, operas, and dance-theatres. In addition, it performs the "Heidelberger Stückemarkt" and in summer the theatre- festival in the Castle, the "Schlossfestspiele". The theatre has its own theatre for children and young adults, the Zwinger 3 that offers a programme for this age group.

Beside the municipal theatre Heidelberg has a lot of private ones, a dance-theatre, a theatre in the university and cultural theatres. Organiser of the annual "Dance international"- an international dance festival - is a private dance-company, the Unterwegs-Theater. The Zimmertheater the second oldest private theatre in Germany (in January 2000 they celebrated their 50th anniversary) is one of the standard theatres in Heidelberg. They play modern dramas and mostly European or German dramas. For more than 10 years, an amateur-theatre in an old factory, the Taeter-Theater produces modern and unconventional dramas. In the Old town is another theatre located, the Volksbühne. The faculty for languages at the University has its own "basement" theatre, the Romanischer Keller that performs for an audience of students and other interested people. The tikk-Theater in the Karlstorbahnhof is - like all the other events in this location - an alternative, unconventional theatre.

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