Dining in Granada

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According to official statistics, Granada has more bars per inhabitant and square kilometre than any other city in Spain. What more need be said? Actually, quite a bit. Granada is dedicated, heart and soul, to tourism and offers a wide variety of drinking and dining options for visitors. Here you'll find everything from restaurants for VIPs and those for whom money is no object, to the traditional little tapas bar where the only items on the menu are ham and wine and you spend the night listening to flamenco; from places with an incredibly extravagant or classic décor, to bars whose decoration hasn't changed one iota in decades, if not longer.

Granada is, without doubt, a city of contrasts. Its glorious past 'with thousands of monuments, literally - and its brilliant future 'the University of Granada is here the motor behind human, technological and cultural development - mix to create the most varied and positive combinations imaginable. This unusual and enriching fusion is reflected in the bars and restaurants, too.

There are, as a result, a myriad of ways to enjoy dining in Granada, both for tourists and locals alike. One of the most typical customs here is 'el tapeo', which consists of going from bar to bar and savouring the different tapas you get with your drinks. The simple fact that the owner of the bar gives you food for free says a lot about the city. This custom is so engrained in Granada, in fact, that bars normally compete with each other to see who offers the best and most tapas, all of which clearly benefits the customers. The variety and quantity are so great that many people only eat tapas for dinner. It is definitely a dream come true for the body and hedonist mind, though its also a good way to discover local cuisine. A few examples of the typical tapas on offer include the adobos de cazón (dogfish, marinated in paprika and olive oil), carne en salsa (meat in sauce), berenjenas rebozadas (breaded and fried aubergine) or boquerones en vinagre (anchovies marinated in vinegar).

What follows, then, is a gastronomic tour of Granada, starting at around noon (remember that lunch starts around 2pm). A good place to begin is the Antigua Bodega Castañeda for a bit of wine. While enjoying your tapas, you can plan the best route through the Albayzín district, accorded national heritage status by Unesco, to work up an appetite. At around 1pm you'll need to make a decision. You can go to the carvery, Rincón de San Juan de Dios, to savour excellent beef from the north of Spain, or head to Sibari, a restaurant found just below the magical Alhambra. The most traditional dish here, as in the rest of Granada, is the tortilla sacromonte (an omelette made with bulls testicles and such) or the habas con jamón (broad beans and ham). Other options include the pipirrana (a tasty salad), migas (bread crumbs fried in olive oil with raisins and chorizo sausage), or the plato alpujarreño (something worth discovering on your own). Granadas cuisine has, in fact, preserved many Arabic customs, such as the brilliant use of herbs and spices. One thing is sure, you will not leave Granada hungry or malnourished.

Once you've finished your lunch, theres nothing better than tea or coffee to round it off. Calle Elvira is a street that features a good number of traditional Arab teashops to help you in this endeavour. One good option is Alfaguara, which serves all manner of teas, both traditional and herbal, exotic pastries, natural fruit juice or shakes. The Pakistani tea or the Granada Batido (a shake made with nuts, honey, cinnamon and yoghurt) are specially recommended. No matter which teashop you end up in, however, you'll find that they're a great place to relax and chat. Most are only lit with soothing candles, placed in the typical ceramic candelabras from Granada.

In the early afternoon, a walk around the Alhambra or the Albayzín district is a good idea. Around 8pm, start thinking about food again. A good option is La Antigualla for a beer and a tapa. Afterwards, you might choose to go to the Morrocan restaurant, Arrayanes which is sure to please even the most refined palates with its typical Arab dishes and traditional desserts. If you're the type who would say at this point, 'Whats next?', then head to the most popular nightlife area in Granada, Pedro Antonio de Alarcón Street, where you'll find the highest concentration of bars and pubs in the city. This is where most fun-loving locals go at night. There is an infinite number of bars on this street and surrounding ones as well, such as San Juan de Dios or Gran Capitán. Better get some rest, though, because tomorrow you start all over.

Entertainment in Granada

The range of entertainment options in Granada is huge and perfectly suited to both tourists and locals alike, whether they be serious or fun-loving types. Cultural activities are extremely varied, both in terms of cinema and theatre, and you'll be hard-pressed to make a decision. But theres more. Almost every single month of the year has its corresponding festival. Of course, all the various organisers of these events consider theirs the best in the world. Here are just a few examples: the International Music and Dance Festival, the International Theatre Festival, the International Tango Festival, the International Jazz Festival...

Film is an important part of everyday life, and Granada has a good variety of cinemas where you can enjoy this art form, such as the Cine Alhambra 'with 15 screens-, or the Aliatar and Multicines Centro cinemas. You can fill your world with fantasy, love stories, mystery or terror in Granada, where all the latest Spanish and international releases are sure to put in an appearance. If, however, you prefer to see the actors in flesh and blood, then all you have to do is go to the theatre. Granada also has a good number of these, such as the Teatro Alhambra or Isabel la Católica, both of which feature classic and modern works.

If contemplating art in all its manifestations on your own is what you're after, then Granadas museums are the place for you. The Archaeological Museum, the composer Manuel de Fallas House and Museum, renowned poet and playwright García Lorcas House and Museum or the Zambra Museum dedicated to this Gypsy dance festival, are all good options.

Now, for the more active types or those who prefer to show off their own dancing skills, or create their own art out on the dance floor, there are plenty of discos and bars where you can strut your stuff and become the object of praise. Theres an incredible range to choose from. A classic, more formal and well-decorated option is Granada 10. While more relaxed options include Planta Baja and Sala Príncipe.

Within this context, Granadas nightlife rarely fails to make a lasting impression on visitors. It is, after all, a university city, with approximately 60,000 18 to 25-year olds roaming the streets at night; that is, one in six inhabitants. There is always something worth celebrating, whether its the start of the new academic year (September/October) or the end of the exam period (February and March). One of the most famous of these 'academic' celebrations is the 'Spring Fiesta'; it even gets support from City Hall. This festival spreads over an entire weekend (normally at the end of March or beginning of April) and includes concerts, theatre performances, poetry recitals and much more.

There are other "fiestas" worth mentioning which also attract an avalanche of visitors to Granada every year. Perhaps the most important is Día de la Cruz (or Day of the Cross, held on 3 May). On this day, everyone in Granada, including foreign visitors, without fail, takes to the streets, dressed in traditional costume to dance "sevillanas", drink "fino" sherry and take part in Granadas festive and carefree atmosphere. This activity starts at mid-morning on the 3rd and lasts till dawn on the 4th (or until your body has had enough). Another equally important "fiesta" is Corpus Christi. Its a religious celebration in origin, with booths and stalls set-up to celebrate the most traditional aspects of life in Granada. People wear traditional costumes and drink "fino" once more. If after all this you're still standing, don't think twice. Go to your travel agents and book next years holiday. Theres nothing healthier than good cheer, good food and good times, and Granada certainly has more than its fair share!

Dining in Europe > Granada
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