Dining in Galway

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Galway's continuing expansion has led to an increase in the number and diversity of its cafés and restaurants. In contrast, the pubs have remained reassuringly unchanged. The superpub has not yet conquered Galway, and most drinking establishments concentrate on the quality of the Guinness instead of the hipness of the jukebox. Eating and drinking are leisurely pastimes in Galway, less hindered by the power lunch and after-work drinks traditions which plague other cities. Searching for sustenance is particularly easy as Galways medieval city centre hosts numerous cafés and bars to suit a variety of wallet sizes.

McDonaghs, at the bottom of Quay Street, is the best place to go in Galway for fish and chips. These are so good here that they are elevated beyond their fast food status. McDonaghs also offers oysters and other shellfish in the adjoining restaurant. Further along Quay Street several restaurants jostle for your attention. Fat Freddys, Trattoria Pasta Mista and Pierre Victoire specialise in reasonably priced, good food, and target visitors to the city. For something a little more innovative, try the River God Café, located above Tigh Neachtains pub, which features Mediterranean cuisine. The portions are generous and the unexpectedly airy dining room provides great views of Quay Street. Alternatively, the Da Tang Noodle House is just around the corner on Middle Street, and offers a variety of Chinese dishes with homemade noodles, all prepared by the Chinese chef and served by his Irish wife. Pizzas with a variety of exotic toppings are available down the street at Milano, where you can savour your anchovies in studiously cool surroundings.

If your wallet has a healthy amount of plastic in it, you may want to have dinner at either Kirwans Lane or Nimmos, two places which are vying for the title of Galways best restaurant. Both are located in the city centre; Nimmos is just past the Spanish Arch overlooking the River Corrib, and Kirwans Lane is situated on the narrow walkway of the same name. Nimmos serves stunning seafood in a gorgeous upstairs room with lovely views of the river. The wine bar downstairs provides a perfect place to start or prolong your evening. Kirwans Lane has a deserved reputation for innovative Irish cuisine, which is combined with usually impeccable service. In the best Galwegian tradition, both places will let you linger over your coffee or liqueurs.

If a search for Irish authenticity brings you to Galways pubs, you'll be spoiled for choice. Tigh Neachtains, on the corner of Quay Street and Cross Street, is far too comfortable to not spend the evening in. Fireplaces and traditional music combine to create a great atmosphere, while the cosy snugs are watched jealously for signs of vacating occupants. The Quays pub on Quay Street is a warm, cavernous space with lots of tucked away tables, which unfortunately can get fairly boisterous. Its also a favourite with the myriad backpackers who stay in the hostel across the street. The Front Door, also on Cross Street, incorporates the older O'Riadas pub, resulting in an acceptable interpretation of the superpub. Home to Galways beautiful people at the weekends, the Front Door provides the perfect opportunity to meet the locals in their Saturday night finery. Dominick Street, just across the Corrib, contains several great pubs. The Crane features Galways best traditional music sessions, while Roisin Dubhs is one of the best music venues in Ireland. Taylors unapologetically unadorned interior provides a comfortable ambience; at least, the Beastie Boys thought so when they came here for some after-gig pints two summers ago.

Pubs and inexpensive restaurants also abound in nearby Salthill, which functions as a mini beach resort in the summer. The Ocean Palace on Upper Salthill, the neighbourhoods main street, offers traditional Chinese food, along with a few European dishes. Fans of Indian food should try Karachi, also on Upper Salthill, who also deliver. The pubs here cater to the locals in winter but throw their doors open to weekenders in the summertime; P.Js and O'Reillys provide good pints and a warm atmosphere.

Some lovely restaurants are only a short scenic drive from Galway. Drimcong House in Oughterard is justly famous for its food; its chef has even published his own cookbook. Donnellys of Barna, at the edge of Connemara, serves fantastic seafood in relaxed yet comfortable surroundings. The Moorings Hotel in Oranmore incorporates a fine restaurant, which features game and seafood dishes. If you're willing to venture further afield to Clifden, you'll be rewarded with a choice of fine seafood restaurants and see some beautiful scenery along the way. Fogartys restaurant is one of the nicest in the area, recognisable by its thatched roof and serving a wide range of dishes.

Entertainment in Galway

It's very hard to avoid being entertained in Galway. Even popping into the pub for a quiet pint may find you inadvertently tapping your feet at an impromptu traditional music session. Galways deserved reputation as a magnet for the arts has resulted in a culturally rich atmosphere fielding a wide range of creative expression. Every facet of the arts is represented in Galway, from painting and photography exhibitions to internationally acclaimed theatre to a vibrant and varied music scene. A considerable percentage of the population work in the arts in some capacity, resulting in a dynamic cultural environment. Although the amount of events on offer reaches a peak in the summertime, the winter months also yield a wealth of performances, gigs and exhibitions.

The Cuirt Literary Festival kicks off the festival season in April. Cuirt delivers a week of literary happenings, featuring a range of Irish and international writers giving lectures or reading from their work. Assorted debates and a multitude of book launches are also on offer over the seven days, with discussions often continuing into the wee hours. The Galway Arts Festival and the Galway Film Fleadh both take place in July, when the festival season is in full swing and culture vultures from all over flood into the city. The Galway Arts Festival is the biggest arts festival in Ireland, and features an eclectic programme of theatre events over the space of two weeks, including Macnass celebrated nighttime parade. The Festival also incorporates open air music gigs, which have included the Beastie Boys and David Gray in past summers. The Galway Film Fleadh boasts an impressive range of new Irish and international cinema screened over six days, as well as a series of workshops and masterclasses for aspiring filmmakers. Booking well in advance for all events is highly recommended, as seasoned Galway residents shrewdly snap up tickets early.

The winter months in Galway sees a very slight abatement in cultural production as well as a welcome respite from the crowds of the summer events. Galway has three theatre spaces in the city centre and more venues dotted around its periphery, all of which host productions throughout the year. The Town Hall Theatre hosts larger productions, from drama to musicals to opera, and also showcases festival events. An Taibhdhearc theatre presents both English and Irish language plays and the intimate space of the Druid theatre hosts a range of impressive drama. Myriad theatre companies have made Galway their home, including Druid and Macnas, whose productions are internationally praised. Druid won a prestigious Tony award two years ago in New York for their production of Martin McDonaghs "The Beauty Queen of Leenane".

Galway is also home to some of the finest traditional music (and musicians) in the country. "Trad", as its called locally, can be heard in various pubs around the city, but the best for live seisúns are the Crane on Sea Road and the Lisheen on Mainguard Street. Again, these sessions can be better in the winter, when the fires are lit and the tourist hordes are gone. The Roisin Dubh, five minutes from the Crane on Dominick Street, is one of the best music venues in Ireland, hosting an eclectic mixture of bands and solo singer/songwriters. Everyone from the Handsome Family to The The to the Frames has played at this canalside venue.

Other evening alternatives include the Film Season at the Town Hall Theatre, which screens international arthouse and independent cinema on Sunday nights. The Season runs from October to April, and yet again advance booking is strongly recommended. The Comedy Club at the Drum on Sunday nights offers the best comedy standups in town. MCs change regularly, but local legend Tommy Tiernan at the mic usually indicates a good night ahead. If you prefer your arts in the form of quiet contemplation, both the newly refurbished Galway Arts Centre on Dominick Street and Kennys Gallery on Middle Street feature exhibitions of painting, photography and sculpture. These incorporate Irish and international artists and change regularly.

Dining in Europe > Galway
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