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Dining in Europe > Dublin A booming economy and a young affluent urban population have both given rise to a surge of commercial development throughout Dublins city centre. While the 1980s were arguably a depressing time for socialising in the city, Dubliners now have more disposable income in their pockets than ever, and as a result, the restaurant and bar industry appears to be thriving. Countless new pubs and eateries have opened in the past few years and a visitor to the city may some be somewhat bewildered by the diversity of choices on offer. This short guide may serve as a useful introduction. Restaurants The southside Georgian area that encompasses St. Stephens Green, Fitzwilliam and Merrion Square is considerably more affluent and the restaurants that boast such a prestigious address pride themselves on a more formal dining experience. The Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, L'Ecrivain, Christophers, The Commons, Peacock Alley and La Stampa have all won international acclaim, and often put the emphasis on French cuisine. Reservations are almost essential in such restaurants, but the experience is usually worth it. Those seeking something a little different are advised to check out the Ayumi-ya Japanese steakhouse, the Good World restaurant, the Indian Shalimar, Saagar or the critically acclaimed Jacobs Ladder. Still undergoing a major redevelopment, the northside of the city is not exactly spoilt for choice when it comes to quality eateries. The areas main thoroughfare is O'Connell Street, which is packed with fast food diners like McDonalds and Eddie Rockets, although there is the occasional gem to be found if you look hard enough. Talbot 101 is a favourite with vegetarians, the Winding Stair café is an excellent spot for lunch, while the Chapter One restaurant in the basement of the Irish Writers' Museum remains very popular with discerning locals. The new Halo restaurant in the Morrison Hotel, has begun to establish a reputation for itself, while the tiny Bangkok Café on Parnell Street has also won acclaim and serves authentic Thai cuisine in an unpretentious and friendly setting. If you are travelling further afield, suburban areas such as Dun Laoghaire, Howth or Malahide offer a wide variety of quality restaurants, which are particularly noteworthy for their seafood. The King Sitric, the Old Schoolhouse, and Cavistons all come recommended. Bars and Pubs If Temple Bar is just a little too hectic for your liking, where can you go? That depends what you expect from a night out. Newer (or recently revamped) bars like the Bailey, the Front Lounge, and Capitole put the emphasis on style and sophistication, and are generally full of stylishly attired twenty-somethings who enjoy chilling out in plush and expensive surroundings. For the die-hard fashion victim, the longer established Hogans and the Globe are arguably a little passé these days, but still draw a committed, hip and clued-in clientele. Many of these bars feature live DJs and often open late at the weekends. The more seasoned drinkers amongst you might find this new self-congratulatory bar scene a little smug, however. There are a significant number of Dubliners who would never been seen dead in these denizens of cool and prefer to stick to more traditional pubs, where the emphasis is on conversation and atmosphere, as opposed to music and style. As previously mentioned, countless of the citys older pubs have recently undergone major renovation work, which makes finding an authentic Dublin pub a somewhat arduous task. Some remain, however. The Long Hall, Grogans, the Palace, Mulligans, Kehoes, the Stags Head and McDaids are all steeped in literary and musical heritage, and offer an atmosphere second to none. You're also more likely to get a good pint of Guinness. For the more adventurous amongst you, the northside of the city also offers a variety of excellent pubs and despite ill-informed conjecture, you won't be taking your life in your hands. Forever synonymous with the Abbey Theatre, the Flowing Tide is certainly worth a visit, as are the Welcome Inn, the stylish Gubu, the Life Bar and the Gravediggers, which takes its curious name from the fact that the pub is adjacent to the historical Glasnevin Cemetery. If you have a somewhat nostalgic view of Ireland and expect a traditional music session' to be the staple of every pub, you're in for a disappointment. Good trad can be found, but expect to go a little further afield than the immediate city centre: O'Sheas, O'Donoghues, the Harcourt Hotel and the Cobblestone in Smithfield all come recommended. Despite the huge number of bars and pubs across the city, Irelands licensing laws still remain rather prohibitive. Pubs generally close at 11.30pm (12.30am on Thursdays, Fridays & Saturdays), and nightclubs begin turning away customers as early as 2.00am. There are, of course, some exceptions: many of the larger, more popular pubs in the city have negotiated 'late' licences, which allows the establishment to remain open a little longer during the weekends. Finding somewhere to drink later than 2am is virtually impossible, however. There are a variety of wine-bars in the Leeson Street that serve until the small hours, but alcohol is often scandalously over-priced and the atmosphere has a reputation for being rather seedy. You're probably best off just going to bed, in the hope that your hangover won't prevent you from rising early the next morning to do some sightseeing. Entertainment in DublinUnlike some of its European counterparts, Dublin still remains a relatively compact city that can easily be negotiated on foot. Whether your interest be historical, literary or cultural, or if you simply want to relax, Dublin offers a range of interesting diversions in a stylish and increasingly cosmopolitan environment. Some would argue that the social life of Dubliners still revolves around the pub (see our Drinking & Dining guide), but if you're staying within the immediate city centre, you'll find plenty of alternatives to nursing a pint of Guinness right on your door-step. This guide offers a concise introduction to Dublins many attractions, and for ease of convenience is divided into the following sections: Literary Attractions, Museums and Galleries, Live Music, Sport and Children. Literary Attractions Dublins northside is also rich in its literary attractions. Still a focal point for much of Irelands new dramatic writing, the Abbey Theatre was originally founded in 1904 by W.B. Yeats and played host to plays by Sean O'Casey and JM Synges infamous Playboy of the Western World. More contemporary dramatists such as Brian Friel, Frank McGuinness and Marina Carr have all had premieres staged here, and the Abbeys sister theatre, the Peacock, continues to promote new writing. Theatre-buffs may also be interested in the Gate Theatre, which was first founded by Hilton Edwards and Edward MacLiammoir in 1928 and recently produced the celebrated Beckett Festival, which also played to packed houses in New York and London. For those less familiar with Dublins literary contributions, a visit to the Dublin Writers Museum may be in order. Located on Parnell Square, the museums collection includes an impressive array of photographs, paintings, first editions and memorabilia, all of which offer an excellent introduction to Irish writing in general. The popular Chapter One restaurant is located in the basement of the museum. Despite the plethora of writers and dramatists associated with the city, Dublin was undoubtedly best captured by its supreme chronicler James Joyce. Despite popular conjecture, Joyce wasn't, bizarrely enough, awarded a Nobel Prize, but his influence on both world literature and culture, has been, to say the very least, staggering. Ulysses still remains the novel by which most others are measured, and its labyrinthine structure name-checks countless city landmarks, the most immediately obvious of which is the Martello Tower in Sandymount. While the majority of Dubliners would probably admit to having not actually read the novel, the city celebrates its Joycean heritage on June 16th. Increasingly becoming a high-profile event, Bloomsday recreates the events that take place over the novels 24 time span, and plays host to festivities all over the capital. The James Joyce Centre on the elegantly restored North Great Georges Street organises the event, and remains a focal point of activity all year round. Museums and Galleries The Chester Beatty Library was reopened to the public at its new home in Dublin Castle in February 2000. Originally owned by the American engineer Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, the library houses a fine collection of Early Christian, Islamic and East Asian manuscripts, paintings, prints, icons and books. In addition to the permanent exhibitions a number of temporary exhibitions have also been planned, including an exhibition of the original manuscript of James Joyces Ulysses. Those conducting genealogical information should pay a visit to the National Library, which offers research facilities that are second to none. The Natural History Museum on Merrion Square was first opened in 1857. Particularly popular with children, the gallery has a Victorian, almost Gothic feel to it, and appears to have remained wholly unchanged since the nineteenth century. In an age of computer-aided exhibits and technology, it provides a marvellous glimpse at the mausoleum-museums of days gone by; and poking through its range of grotesque stuffed animals, bottled insects and bizarre flora and fauna is a surprisingly fascinating way to spend an afternoon. While not having the fine art legacy of other European cities, there are also several excellent galleries in Dublin where Irelands relatively little known artists can be appreciated. The National Gallery is an essential stop-off in an exploration of the history of Irish art. A recently developed Jack B. Yeats room displays the paintings, notebooks and other artefacts from this important and compulsively creative Irish family. A five minute walk from the National Gallery is the RHA Gallery on Ely Place. The RHA displays exhibitions from the more successful of living Irish artists, as well as significant retrospectives and the annual National College of Art and Design degree showcase. The development of the Temple Bar Gallery and Studios has been a prime example of the maturing of the Irish arts scene. In the 1980s and 90s, artists took over a dilapidated building in the then run-down Temple Bar area and set up studios and a gallery. With the design of the area as a cultural quarter, the gallery enjoyed a major refurbishment and is now more of the more important contemporary galleries in the city. The Taylor, Kavanagh, Green on Red and Hallward, Solomon and Kerlin galleries are all also worth a visit. Adjacent to the Garden of Remembrance, a stones throw away from historic O'Connell Street, the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art is probably the most significant gallery on Dublins northside. The Hugh Lane houses an impressive permanent collection and a series of ongoing contemporary art exhibitions. The gallerys recent acquisition of Francis Bacons studio has been a heated talking point in Dublin art circles, and the preserved studio is expected to be on show this year. A short walk from the city centre, the Irish Museum of Modern Art is well worth a visit. Located in the stylishly refurbished Kilmainham hospital, IMMA always has something interesting on show, with ongoing exhibitions of both Irish and international art. The museum has hosted successful retrospectives of Andy Warhol and Joseph Bueys, amongst others, and the permanent collection of modern art is also essential viewing. A childrens response room and artists in residence add to the modern art experience in this fine eighteenth century building. Live Music For atmosphere, quality and character, however, Dublins smaller pub venues are still where its at. Whelans on Wexford Street is probably the best venue in the city: with great acoustics, a friendly and loyal crowd and a spectacular balcony view of its tiny but perfectly adequate stage. Whelans is a great place to catch up-and coming Dublin bands and emerging international acts, usually of a rock, folk or alternative variety, and the cover charge is always reasonable, too. If traditional Irish music is your thing, you're not exactly spoilt for choice. Some of Dublins more authentic pubs like the Cobblestone, the Harcourt Hotel, O'Sheas and O'Donoghues feature trad sessions, but the quality varies considerably from night to night. Nealons, Renards, Slatterys and Smyths are popular haunts for fans of jazz and blues. Sport Soccer is also played at a semi-professional level in Ireland. Dublins main representatives in the national league are Shamrock Rovers, Shelbourne FC, Bohemians and UCD, all of which have home grounds in the capital city. A visit to Dalymount Park in Phibsboro will capture the excitement of the local teams in action. Ireland is famed around the world for its quality of horse breeding, and racing remains as popular as ever in Dublin. Leopardstown has race days all year, while The Curragh and Punchestown (both in Co. Kildare) are also popular venues, the latter of which is the home of the National Hunt. National Hunt racing begins on St Stephens Day (Boxing Day) and runs for four days over the Christmas period. Other important festivals include the AIG Europe Hurdle and the Ladbrokes Hurdle in January and the Hennessy Gold Cup in February. Greyhound racing has also become increasingly popular in recent years, and Shelbourne Park has race meetings several times a week. Golf is also extremely popular in Ireland and Dublin boasts some 55 different links, most of which are located in suburban areas, including the internationally renowned Portmarnock Golf Course, which has hosted many major championships including the Irish Open. Many of these clubs are privately owned, however, and require membership of a golf union. A number of smaller clubs such as Hollystown, Stepaside, Elm Green and the Swords Open Golf Club, operate a green fees policy and are within easy reach of the city centre. More information, including a list of private courses, can be obtained from the Golfing Union of Ireland. The Murphys Irish Open is one of the highlights of the professional golf calendar and is held every July. Other marvellous courses are located within a hours drive of the city, including the magnificent K Club and Mount Juliet. Ireland boasts some of the finest fishing locations in the world, although Dublin is not exactly spoilt for choice. Coarse fishing options can be found along the river Liffey, the Royal Canal, the Dodder and the Grand Canal, while Dublins coastline offers excellent sea fishing opportunities. Dun Laoghaire, Howth, Skerries, Dalkey and Killiney beach are all good locations. Permits can be obtained from most fishing tackle shops or from the Eastern Regional Fisheries Board. A state licence is required for river fishing for salmon or sea trout from the Fishery Board. Sea, rock, beach or canal fishing does not require a permit, however. Children Dining in Europe > Dublin
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