|
Dining in Europe > Aix En Provence Compared with its famous neighbour Marseilles, Aix isn't exactly cheap where eating out is concerned, but it can be worth paying that little bit more for a taste of the towns old-world charm - the perfect accompaniment to a host of carefully composed menus offering a wide range of exquisitely prepared dishes. Aix boasts an impressive number of restaurants, either tucked away in the shade of narrow streets or more prominently positioned in the better-known squares, which offer cuisine from places as far-flung as Asia, the Orient, South America and of course, Provence. In addition, the enchanting setting of Aixs Sainte-Victoire mountain - which was painter Cézannes main source of inspiration - provides a stunning backdrop to good local fare served in friendly surroundings. In the heart of the old town, Place des Cardeurs' many restaurants present diners with a tough choice: theres Chez Maxime, ideal for those partial to chargrilled meat; the Bouchon Provençal, which champions traditional Provençal cuisine with a modern twist, and Aligot, which proudly presents the rich cuisine of the Auvergne region of France. Most of the restaurants, generally at their busiest in the evenings, are situated a little further south, towards Cours Mirabeau, Rue de la Couronne and the streets running on from it (Rue des Tanneurs and Rue de Lieutaud). A visit to L'Acteur (owned by a chef for whom cooking is a true calling) is a must: experience at first hand his masterful interpretation of fish- and seafood-based dishes. Not only are the mouth-watering delicacies cooked over a wood fire in Flambée des Bourras' pleasant vaulted interior: they're also prepared using produce of the very highest quality. Meanwhile, inventiveness is the order of the day in the Bistrot Latin, which, despite having a somewhat limited menu, offers dishes that are prepared according to whats available at the local market. Two other places to head for are Saf-Saf, which offers particularly tasty, simple, African-style dishes, and Tex-Mex Havana Café. Finally, if you're into sushi and other Japanese food, the talented chef at Yamato (not far from Havana Café) will not disappoint. One street you can't miss on your way to Cours Mirabeau is Rue Espariat, whose long-standing pizzeria Chez Jo offers an amazing choice of delicious pizzas cooked before your eyes, Italian-style salads and traditional recipes that form part of the local culinary heritage. The next street, Rue Doumer, is home to the Amphitryon, a different kind of restaurant. Fruit of the partnership of two immensely talented chefs, Bruno Ungaro and Patrice Lesné, this gourmet restaurant serves good, traditional cuisine to consistently high standards. Cours Mirabeau, Aixs very own Champs-Elysées, is home to legendary brasserie - now a listed building - the Deux Garçons, which has occupied this spot since 1748. The pleasure of sitting out on the brasseries terrace - to see and be seen while tasting some of its light, aromatic cuisine - is well worth stopping for! In Chez Gu et Fils, situated at the start of Rue Mistral (one of the roads running at right angles to the towns main avenue), perfectly executed, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine is served in surroundings entirely devoted to show business stars and memorabilia. Linked to Cours Mirabeau by Passage Agard, the Place du palais de Justice (Law Courts), is another spot you're bound to pass through while visiting the towns historic centre. You can sample local cuisine inside Verdun or on its famous terrace; the Table Marocaine offers North African and oriental specialities, while the Platanos will take you on a culinary tour of the Aegean Islands. Not to be forgotten, Asian delicacies from Vietnam are served in Cay-Tam, and those from India can be tasted in Nirvana. Dining out in Aix-en-Provence is at its most refined in the Clos de la Violette restaurant, set in beautiful surroundings overlooking the Sextius area, which is situated on the fringes of Aixs old town. Gourmets - and indeed anyone who enjoys good food - agree that the food served here is orchestrated in an original, almost perfect fashion by chef Jean-Marc Banzo. The towns other well-known eateries are dotted around the surrounding countryside. Montagne Ste-Victoire (Sainte-Victoire mountain), this stark imposing mass of harsh white limestone, has, nestling at the foot of its southern slope, a couple of restaurants that are worth paying a visit. Whether you plump for Mr Bergès' Relais Sainte-Victoire - a splendid mas (Provençal house or farm) - or Anne Carbonels country-style hideaway, Puyfond, both are proud to serve authentic, local cuisine that owes its flavour and character to the regions abundant sunshine. The mountains north side is home to a more laid-back restaurant, the Chez le Garde, a former bastide (Provençal country house). Its country setting, on the way out of Vauvenargues village, is the ideal place to meet up with friends for a game of boules (bowls) before enjoying the places simple, but exceedingly tasty cuisine. Translated by L. Chalmers Entertainment in Aix En ProvenceFine Art In addition to the architectural treasures that make it one big open-air museum, Aix-en-Provence boasts numerous and varied spaces dedicated to painting and to the visual arts in general. Named after Aix-en-Provences own François Marius Granet, a 19th-century painter who donated many works to the museum, the Musée Granet (Granet Museum) contains major French 16th-20th century paintings. Among the collections most important works are eight Cézannes depicting the Sainte-Victoire (a nearby mountain) from different angles and in various lights. Tapestry connoisseurs will appreciate the Musée des Tapisseries (Tapestry Museum) located on the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance, on the first floor of the Archbishops palace. Here a permanent collection of 17th- and 18th-century works shares space with contemporary textile exhibits. Situated in a splendid 17th-century mansion, the Musée du Vieil Aix (Museum of Old Aix-en-Provence) counts among its collections a variety of objects related to local history and rural life: furniture, clothing, nativity figures, and china are on display, as are canvases from the Provençal School. Typical of the movement led by painter and Ecole des Beaux-Arts (School of Fine Arts) director Emile Loubon (1809-1863), the latter are mainly landscapes painted in the region. Located on the Cours Mirabeau, the art gallery of the Conseil Général (Regional Council) promotes past and present local artists through thematic and historic exhibitions. Head north out of town to visit Cézannes studio, where works of the great master from Aix-en-Provence are displayed in their authentic setting. Cézannes workspace has been meticulously preserved, and the visit can be quite moving: you almost expect the artist himself to show up! The Fondation Vasarely (Vasarely Foundation) features painting and architecture by the Hungarian artist of the same name. Vasarely was particularly fond of optical illusions. The museum is located between Aix-en-Provence and Marseilles. Nature and Science The unique collection of the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle (Museum of Natural History), taken mainly from digs around the nearby Sainte-Victoire mountain, can be found inside the magnificent Hôtel Boyer d'Eguilles. Exhibits include fossils of dinosaurs, fish and insects. A major archaeological site four kilometres north of Aix-en-Provence, the Entremont Oppidum sheds light on the organisation of the Celto-Ligurian civilisation that occupied the region until the Romans came in 122 B.C. The Ecomusée de la Forêt (Ecomuseum of the Forest) south of Aix-en-Provence was founded in the early 1990s. This museum promotes protection of Mediterranean forests through a visit that is both amusing and instructive. Other places of cultural interest The Cité du Livre (Center for Books) features various arts including literature and video. In an effort to promote renovation of historic façades in central Aix-en-Provence, the Atelier du Patrimoine (Heritage Workshop) hosts lectures and conferences for professionals and the public. The town of Les Milles, just south of Aix-en-Provence, is home to the Mémorial des Milles (Les Milles Memorial). The Memorial sits on the site of a World War II deportation camp, which was set up in a former tile factory. Film The cinematic capital of Provence must be Aix-en-Provence, whose nine-screen Cézanne complex (near the Place de la Rotonde) hosts numerous sneak previews of upcoming releases. Those seeking arty retrospectives or subtitled versions of foreign films should head for the pedestrian area off the Cours Mirabeau, where the Mazarin holds frequent festivals devoted to greats like Welles, Kubrick and Almodóvar. Finally, the Renoir screens mainstream films including movies for children. Music Every summer since 1948, classical-music fans from around the globe have come to Aix-en-Provence for the Festival d'Art Lyrique (Poetry Festival), held in the lovely courtyard of the former Archbishops palace on the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance. This festivals lavish productions feature operas greatest voices - Anne-Sofie Otter, Anthony Rolfe-Johnsonsinging everything from Mozart to Monteverdi under starry skies. The Aix Jazz Festival programs well-known jazz virtuosi each year. Rock fans can check out local talent at Le Bistrot Aixois and L'Olive à Bulles. Clubs, Shows Live music can be heard among the historic centres pedestrian streets at Le Scat-Club, or - for the jazz fan - at Le Hot Brass to the north of town. For more intense nighttime activities, Aix-en-Provence offers plenty of trendy clubs. These include Le Mistral near the Cours Mirabeau, a legendary spot for seeing and being seen; Les Templiers, a beacon of the local house scene featuring top-notch DJs; the popular Brigand, Keynight and Damier, which feature new music and regularly host student nights; and, for those who prefer drag and strip shows, techno music and pickup scenes, Le Happy-Days and Le Chimère Café. Traditional cabaret-style dinner shows, high quality and fun, can be found at Le Jogging Rose. Dance & Theatre The best in modern dance has recently found a home in Aix-en-Provence thanks to the opening of the Ballet Prejlocaj in the Cité du Livre (Center for Books). The diversity of the citys theatre scene bears witness to its cultural open-mindedness and international attitude. From new plays at the Théâtre Antoine Vitez to comedy at the city centres Fontaine d'Argent to the eclectic Parisian 'hipness' of the Théâtre des Ateliers, the stage is well-served in Aix-en-Provence. Outside town but not to be missed is La Fonderie, which features the authentic language and cerebral wit of regional artists in a café-theatre-restaurant setting. Sports Exercise-seeking Aixois (Aix residents) frequent health clubs like Gym-Concept and Axium, while thrill-seekers may prefer the Mégaglace skating rink, or the Adams scuba centre (beginners welcome). Finally, various university sports facilitiesstadiums, swimming pools, tracks, etc.'are open to the public for a small fee. Dining in Europe > Aix En Provence
|